Michigan Today . . . March 1995
Seasoned Critics
ALUMNAE Gael Greene and Ruth Reichl
serve the meatiest restaurant reviews

By Steve Rosoff

Greene of New York Magazine

Months of correspondence and phone calls have brought me to this point, a location determined only 90 minutes earlier by a quick, succinct phone call. "Ms. Greene will meet you at Gonzales y Gonzales on West Broadway at 1:15 p.m."

I arrive at the Mexican eatery early and wait outside because I want to spot Ms. Greene before she spots me. I have only a vague notion of her features—a picture from 16 years ago.
(cont'd.)

Reichl of the Times

One of her detractors charged that she didn't really like food, and that if she weren't a restaurant critic, she probably wouldn't eat at all.

That critic never saw Ruth Reichl '68, '70 MA, aspirate nine littleneck clams, lustily crunch on a hard roll slathered with butter, attack several pounds of steak tartar, then finish with a lemon tart—all while recovering from an upset stomach.
(cont'd.)


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